Sunday, September 23, 2007

Photo of sleeve on finished FLAK sweater. Click on photo for larger size. It shows the inset of the sleeve and also the amount of knitting added below the sleeve to make the body of the sweater larger. Again, I think every knitter should send a big round of applause to Janet Szabo of Big Sky Knitting for coming up with this method of top down sweater design.

Saturday, September 22, 2007

Why can't I ever just knit a pattern exactly as designed? Spent a few hours today playing around with knitting Fulmar as a top down cardigan in the style of Janet Szabo's FLAK. I like being able to control the sleeve length and definitely do not need a drop shoulder sweater than comes half way down my arm. My arms are short enough not to need that bulk under the sleeve area.


I used the swatch shown in the post of September 18th and measured each cable both sideways and depth. Thought I had the math worked out and pulled out a blue FLAK knit last year to compare the measurements. Was very surprised to see that my neck opening on the blue FLAK was 9"!! I decided to go from a personal measurement of 17" cross shoulder to the 20.5" on the blue FLAK which is very comfortable to wear on the shoulders.

Next I knit a saddle using Chart C with 2 purl stitches on each side added. One purl will be to pick up and the other to define the cable. In 6 1/2" of Chart C, I got 64 rows which meant 64 stitches to pick up easily. Two 6-1/2" saddles equals 13" which left 7-1/2" for the back neck opening. I will pick up 64 stitches on the saddle, cast on 72 stitches for the middle of the back, pick up 64 stitches on the other saddle for a total of 200 stitches.

The Chart layout would be from right to left with the saddles on the bottom, B,C,D,E,B,C,D,E,B,C,D. This centers the C exactly in the middle of the back. In order to be sure it all worked out, I cut up photocopies of the charts and actually scotch taped them in order to a large piece of paper. The saddles were lined up on each side of the chart layout and the math proved right. Sometimes seeing is believing and as long as my gauge doesn't change as I knit a bigger piece, this should work.

The front of the sweater is picked up from the other side of the saddle. Stitches are cast on for the front either as a crew neck (which will be what I do) or a V neck. More width is added to the sweater once the back and front are knit to the depth of the armhole and the sweater is then knit in the round. This added width can be in cable repeats or in check rib. I'll probably do some of each. For those of you who aren't familiar with Janet's method, FLAK can be found at http://bigskyknitting.com/FLAK/knitalong.html. The lessons she presented are printed off and hole punched in their own folder. I keep one clean copy in case those files every disappear off the net.



Now that I've got my mind wrapped around how to approach Fulmar as a FLAK, I can get back to my daughter's Symbolic Knot's sweater. Body is done and one sleeve picked up. Only seed stitch left to do so it will be hard to finish.

Tuesday, September 18, 2007

The test swatch for Fulmar is done, washed and measured. Did you notice it is red, not blue? I have so many sweaters in blue and none in red so switched to crimson Wendy Guernsey five ply using a 2.75mm Inox circular. For the test, I knit 18 stitches in check rib, 18 stitches in Chart B, 20 stitches in Chart C, 18 stitches in Chart D (reverse of B) and 16 stitches in Chart E for a total of 90 stitches. The swatch after washing is 10".



The check rib measured 2-1/2"
Chart B is 1-3/4"
Chart C is 2"
Chart D is 1-3/4"
Chart E is 2"
Amazingly enough it adds up to 10".

Note in the photo below that the ribbing does flow into the body of the sweater. In order to make it work, I did NOT increase between the ribbing and the body. As I'm "hippy", having the ribbing and the body the same number of stitches doesn't bother me at all



The knitting sequence on the sweater goes Check rib, B,C,D,E,B,C,D,E,B,C,D,Check rib. Using the measurements I got for each chart,the sweater front (or back) would measure 25-1/2" or 51" total. I'm knitting the small which is supposed to measure 45" and I'll be getting 51". The only way to control this would be to cut way back on number of stitches in the check rib.

So I'm pretty set for the Knit Along starting on October 1st. I've wanted to make this sweater for a long time and thanks to Theresa, the KAL list mom, I'm going to make it.

Monday, September 03, 2007

Fulmar is a tightly knit Aran sweater by Alice Starmore and is found in the out of print book "Aran Knitting". The original yarn was Scottish Fleet which knits to 30 sts and 40 rows per 4". Photos of the finished sweater can be seen on Wendy Johnson's Blog. She lists her finished sweaters here: http://wendyknits.net/wendy/knitting.htm

I want to be Wendy when I grow up. She has completed TWO Fulmars. TWO!!. First one is in green http://wendyknits.net/knit/fulmar.htm and is knit with Frangipani. Second one is in blue http://wendyjohnson.net/knit/fulmar.htm and knit in Bovidae Farm Sportweight.



I've been playing with swatching Fulmar in Wendy Guernsey. I have it in white, medium blue and soon in crimson red. What else do you do with yard sale money but buy yarn? The swatch has 2 purl edge stitches, 18 stitches of Chart B (the right twist cable with side oval cables), 2 purl divider stitches, 20 stitches of Chart C (the braid) and 2 purl edge stitches. Total of 44 stitches on Size US#2 or 2.75mm circular Inox/Prym needle.

Chart B measures 2 1/8" wide. Chart C measures 2 3/8" wide. 24 rows which is two chart repeats measured 2 3/4" in height. The check rib swatch measures out as 2 1/4" for 18 stitches.

so.....
Check rib 2 1/4
Chart B 2 1/8
Chart C 2 3/8
Chart D 2 1/8
Chart E 2
Chart B 2 1/8
Chart C 2 3/8
Chart D 2 1/8
Chart E 2
Chart B 2 1/8
Chart C 2 3/8
Chart D 2 1/8
Check rib 2 1/4

Total = 26-19/8 or 28-3/8" for ONE HALF of the sweater or 56-3/4" wide for total.

OH OH. If you look closely at the photo (double click for large size photo), the oval cable running alongside the 6 stitch cable is a twisted stitch cable. I do not like this cable as a twisted stitch as it looks and feels hard and, for me, looks odd. Part of this is probably from using a 5 ply twisted yarn to start with. I might skip the twisted stitch with this wool.

I'm going to have to think about what I'm doing wrong. I got spot on gauge with this yarn on 2.75mm needles in the check rib. I like my sweaters a bit oversized but this one would swim on my hubby.